What Is Jersey Fabric? T-Shirt Fabric Guide

What jersey fabric is, how it is knitted, single, slub, stretch and double jersey, jersey vs interlock, rib and piqué, cotton and blended jersey, T-shirt GSM, and how to specify jersey for a factory.

The Short Answer

Jersey is a knitted fabric made with plain knit stitches, usually on a circular knitting machine. It has a smooth face with fine vertical columns of V-shaped loops, a looped back, and natural stretch, especially across its width. It is the standard fabric for T-shirts, and it is also used for long-sleeve tops, dresses, loungewear, sleepwear, leggings, baby clothing and jersey bed sheets.

"Jersey" describes how the fabric is constructed, not what it is made of. Cotton jersey, polyester jersey, viscose jersey and cotton-elastane jersey are all jersey. For a brand, that distinction matters: a factory needs both the construction and the fibre content to quote a garment. This guide explains how jersey is made, the main types, how it compares with interlock, rib and piqué, which fibres and weights are used, the production problems to plan for, and how to specify jersey in a tech pack.

How Jersey Fabric Is Made

Jersey is a weft knit. A single yarn, or a set of yarns fed side by side, runs across the width of the fabric and is formed into rows of interlocking loops. On a single-jersey machine, there is one set of needles, and every needle knits every course the same way. The result is a fabric that looks different on each side:

The face (technical front) shows neat vertical columns, called wales, made of V-shaped loops. It is smooth and is normally the outside of the garment.

The back (technical back) shows horizontal rows of half-loops, called courses. It looks slightly rougher and more textured.

The name comes from the island of Jersey in the Channel Islands, which was known for knitted wool garments. Today it is used for any fabric with this plain-knit structure, whatever the fibre.

Our knit vs woven guide explains how knits differ from woven fabrics such as poplin and twill, and why that difference changes which factories can quote a product.

Properties of Jersey Fabric

The plain-knit structure gives jersey a predictable set of strengths and weaknesses.

Stretch. Jersey stretches well across its width and less along its length. Without elastane, recovery is moderate, so knees, cuffs and necklines can bag over time.

Drape and softness. Jersey is light for its coverage and drapes well, which is why it is used for tees and dresses.

Breathability. A single layer of loops lets air through, which suits T-shirts and summer garments.

Edge curl. Cut single jersey tends to roll at the edge: towards the face along the length and towards the back across the width. This affects cutting and sewing, not the finished garment, but factories have to manage it.

Ladders and runs. If a loop breaks, the stitch can run along the wale. Fine-gauge, tightly knitted jersey is less prone to this.

Spirality. Single jersey can twist after washing, so side seams move towards the front or back of the garment. This is covered in more detail below.

Types of Jersey

Mills use many trade names. These are the types a brand is most likely to meet.

Single jersey. The standard plain jersey described above. Most T-shirts are single jersey.

Slub jersey. Single jersey knitted with slub yarn, which has deliberate thick and thin sections. It gives an irregular, textured, slightly vintage look and is popular for fashion tees. Because the effect is intentional, agree the slub character on a swatch so it is not treated as a defect at inspection.

Stretch jersey. Jersey with elastane, usually plaited alongside the main yarn, for better recovery and a closer fit. Common in fitted tees, leggings, dresses and activewear.

Heather or melange jersey. Knitted from yarn spun with fibres of different colours, giving a mottled grey or coloured effect.

Yarn-dyed stripe jersey. Stripes are produced by changing yarn colours on the knitting machine rather than by printing. Our guide to garment dyed vs piece dyed vs yarn dyed explains how this changes minimums and lead time.

Double jersey. A general term for knits made on two sets of needles, giving a thicker, more stable fabric that looks similar on both sides. Interlock and ponte are common double-jersey fabrics.

Jersey vs Interlock vs Rib vs Piqué

These four knits cover most T-shirts, polos, baby clothes and fitted tops. They are often confused, so it helps to know how they differ.

Single jersey. Smooth face, looped back, light, drapey, curls at the edge. The default for T-shirts.

Interlock. A double knit that looks like the face of jersey on both sides. It is thicker, smoother, more stable and less prone to curling or running than single jersey at a similar weight. Widely used for baby clothing, premium tees and some polos.

Rib. Knit and purl wales alternate, for example 1x1 rib or 2x2 rib, giving strong widthwise stretch and recovery. Used for neckbands, cuffs and hems, and as a body fabric for fitted tank tops, bodysuits and loungewear.

Piqué. A knit with tuck stitches that create a raised honeycomb or diamond texture. More structured and breathable than jersey, and the classic polo shirt fabric. Our guide to what piqué fabric is covers it in detail.

A quick way to check a swatch: if the face is smooth with fine V-shaped columns and the back looks different, it is likely single jersey. If both sides look like the smooth face, it is likely interlock. If it has pronounced vertical ridges and pulls in strongly across the width, it is rib.

Fibres Used in Jersey

The fibre changes the hand feel, drape, shrinkage, price and care behaviour.

Cotton jersey. The most common choice for T-shirts. Combed and ring-spun yarns give a smoother, softer, more even surface than carded open-end yarns. Our guide to ring-spun vs combed cotton explains the yarn options.

Organic cotton jersey. The same construction with certified organic fibre. If you want to make an organic claim, the fabric and garment need to be certified through the supply chain. See our guide to GOTS certification.

Cotton-polyester blends (CVC and poly-cotton). Shrink less, hold colour and shape better and dry faster than 100% cotton, with a slightly less natural hand feel.

Tri-blend. Cotton, polyester and rayon, giving a soft, drapey, slightly heathered fabric often used for fashion tees.

Viscose, modal and lyocell jersey. Smooth, cool, drapey fabrics used for dresses, loungewear and sleepwear.

Polyester and nylon jersey. Used in activewear and sportswear, usually with elastane, often with moisture-management finishes.

Cotton or viscose with elastane. Added for recovery in fitted garments.

So "is jersey cotton?" has a simple answer: it can be, but it does not have to be. Jersey is the knit; cotton is one of several fibres it can be made from. State both in the brief.

Jersey Weight and GSM

Jersey weight is usually given in GSM, grams per square metre. Our GSM guide explains how it is measured and converted to ounces. As rough starting points for T-shirts:

Lightweight, roughly 120 to 160 GSM: fashion tees, layering pieces and summer styles.

Midweight, roughly 160 to 200 GSM: the everyday range for most basic and promotional tees.

Heavyweight, roughly 200 GSM and above: boxy, structured and streetwear tees.

Weight is not the only factor. Two jerseys at the same GSM can feel different because of yarn count, fibre, knitting tightness and finishing. Specify the finished weight, after washing and finishing, with a tolerance, and approve it on a sample.

Common Production Issues With Jersey

Most problems with jersey garments are predictable, and most can be controlled in the specification.

Shrinkage. Cotton jersey can shrink in length and width when washed. Compacting the fabric and, for some styles, garment washing reduce this. Our guide to pre-shrunk cotton explains the options and the test methods.

Spirality (torque). Single jersey can twist after washing because of the twist in the yarn and the way circular knitting forms the fabric. The side seam moves around the body. Ask the factory how it controls spirality, and check side-seam position on a washed sample.

Neckline stretch. A neckband that loses recovery makes a T-shirt look worn. Rib neckbands with elastane, a suitable band-to-neckline ratio and neck tape help.

Edge curl in cutting and sewing. Managed by the factory through fabric relaxation, cutting method and handling. It is a reason to ask whether a factory regularly sews light single jersey.

Pilling. Short fibres, loose knitting and some blends pill more. Combed or compact yarns and a pilling test help.

Barre and shade variation. Horizontal bands of slightly different shade can appear when yarn lots differ. Shade variation can also appear between fabric rolls. Ask for shade-sorted rolls and approve the bulk shade against a lab dip.

Transparency in light colours. Light-weight white or pastel jersey can be see-through. Check opacity on a sample in the actual colour.

How to Specify Jersey Fabric for a Factory

A factory can only quote and produce what you specify. For a jersey garment, include:

Construction: for example "single jersey", "slub single jersey", "interlock" or "1x1 rib" for trims.

Fibre content: for example "100% combed cotton" or "60% cotton, 40% polyester".

Yarn: count and type where it matters, for example combed ring-spun or compact.

Finished weight: GSM after finishing, with a tolerance.

Width and finish: open width or tubular, and any finishes such as enzyme washing or softener. Our guide to enzyme wash and garment washing explains the common finishes.

Colour: Pantone or physical standard, and lab dip approval.

Shrinkage: maximum length and width shrinkage and the test method, for example AATCC 135 or ISO 6330 with ISO 5077.

Spirality: the maximum side-seam twist you accept after washing.

Colourfastness: to washing and rubbing, for example AATCC 61 or ISO 105-C06, and AATCC 8 or ISO 105-X12.

Pilling: the test and minimum rating, for example ASTM D3512 or ISO 12945-2.

Trims: rib neckband construction and composition, neck tape, labels.

Measurements: points of measure and tolerances, checked after washing.

All of this belongs in the tech pack. Our guide to what a tech pack is shows where each item goes, and our guide to AQL sampling explains how the bulk order is inspected against it.

MOQ and Cost Factors

Jersey is one of the most widely knitted fabrics, which helps smaller orders, but minimums still depend on choices:

Stock fabric versus developed fabric. A mill's existing jersey quality and colours usually allow smaller runs. A custom composition, weight, slub effect or colour is knitted and dyed for the order and carries the mill's minimum per colour.

Yarn. Combed, compact, organic and specialty yarns cost more than carded open-end yarns.

Yarn-dyed stripes and melange. These are made to order on the knitting machine and add their own minimums and lead time.

Washing and finishing. Garment washing or special finishes add a process step and cost.

Decoration. Print and embroidery costs depend on method, size, colours and positions.

Rather than assuming a minimum, ask the factory to quote the fabric minimum per colour separately from the garment minimum.

Sourcing Jersey Garments in Turkey

Turkey has a large knitting, dyeing and finishing base serving apparel brands, and jersey T-shirts, tops and basics are a standard knitwear product for its garment manufacturers. Which jersey qualities, compositions and colours a factory can source from stock, and which it develops with a partner mill, vary by factory, so they should be confirmed at the quote stage.

SourceBridge responds to a textile brief within 24 hours with options from 2–3 pre-vetted Turkish factories. The published starting point for textiles is 300 units per style. Samples typically take 7–14 days, plus 5–7 days for international courier, and production typically runs 4–8 weeks depending on product complexity, with a pre-shipment inspection against the approved sample before goods leave the factory. Our guides on how to find a clothing manufacturer and clothing manufacturers for startups cover the steps before and after the specification.

FAQ: Jersey Fabric

What is jersey fabric?

Jersey is a knitted fabric made with plain knit stitches. It has a smooth face with fine V-shaped columns, a looped back and natural stretch. It is the standard fabric for T-shirts and is also used for dresses, loungewear, leggings and baby clothing.

Is jersey fabric cotton?

Jersey can be cotton, but it does not have to be. Jersey describes the knit construction. It is made in cotton, polyester, viscose, modal, blends and with elastane. Check the fibre content separately.

What is the difference between jersey and cotton?

Cotton is a fibre; jersey is a way of knitting yarn into fabric. A cotton T-shirt is usually cotton jersey. Cotton can also be woven into poplin, twill or denim, which are not jersey.

What is the difference between jersey and interlock?

Single jersey has a smooth face and a different, looped back, and it curls at the cut edge. Interlock is a double knit that looks like the smooth face on both sides. It is thicker, more stable and less prone to curling or running at a similar weight.

What is slub jersey?

Slub jersey is single jersey knitted with slub yarn, which has deliberate thick and thin sections. It gives a textured, irregular surface often used for fashion and vintage-look tees.

Does jersey fabric shrink?

Cotton jersey can shrink, especially if it is not compacted or pre-shrunk. Blends with polyester shrink less. Set a maximum shrinkage and a test method in the specification and check it on a washed sample.

Why does my jersey T-shirt twist after washing?

That is spirality, a common issue with single jersey. It comes from yarn twist and circular knitting. It can be reduced with suitable yarn and finishing, and the maximum twist should be set in the specification.

What GSM is jersey for T-shirts?

T-shirt jersey is commonly around 160 to 200 GSM for everyday tees, lighter for fashion and summer styles, and above 200 GSM for heavyweight tees. Choose by product and approve the weight on a sample.

What Is Jersey Fabric? A T-Shirt Fabric Guide